How to Build a Modern Farmhouse Railing [Step-by-Step Guide]

Time: 2 Hours

Cost: $100

Skill: Moderate

Note: This Post Contains Affiliate Links

Important Safety Notes: While railings may offer visual appeal in a space, they are also an important safety feature. Be sure to check your local codes. Some jurisdictions may also have permit requirements, and may not allow horizontal balusters.

This farmhouse railing was literally one of the last DIY projects I finished before we sold our beautiful house a few months ago.

So not surprising that it took me a while to get around to organizing my thoughts and pictures for this project, I supposed that’s what happens when you have a day job. Anyways…I built this DIY Modern Farmhouse Railing out of complete necessity.

Our 1948 Cape is a bit unique, in that the original owners built a very awkward addition some time in the 70’s. Perhaps it’s normal and the 70s was an odd time, who knows! I wasn’t even alive…So this awkward addition, involved a strange rectangular second floor on the left of the house, and to access it you walk up these stairs that have a small landing.

If you want a real look at the disaster this attic space was before I tore out pink carpet and endless wood paneling, check out these posts!

• Attic Remodel
• Guest Bedroom Remodel
• Guest Bedroom Progress

Knowing we were selling and would need an inspection, we had to add something at the top of the stairs. In the name of SAFETY! When we started to renovate the upstairs, we removed a short iron railing….very dated, and not all that secure. It likely met the building codes of 1970, but not today’s standards.

Since this was such a strange space, I wanted something that felt light and didn’t seem to crowd the space. I also wanted something modern that would match the other renovations we had made.

So pulling from the white cedar plank ceiling I had just installed and painted, I decided to come up with something that I would call modern farmhouse! Hence, the modern farmhouse railing!

I also knew I wanted minimal contact with the beautiful floors I had just finished installing, so horizontal balusters were the solution!

Unfortunately I couldn’t find too much information to build a interior balcony/landing railing. So I came up with a plan to use a single newel post, a common board attached to the wall, and several black metal balusters, based on similar products I found on the market.

I love a project with minimal materials, and steps! I also love having a dog helper 🖤

Now for a few notes about this project and how I customized it to fit the requirements of my building codes…At the time of building this railing the regulations for my town were 34” and no more than 6” between balusters.

Again…make sure you research any building codes and permit requirements in your town. Use these details to determine if you can complete this project, or need to make any adjustments. In addition to building codes you may want to consider who has access to the railing. For example, if you have kids, a horizontal railing may not be something you want depending on age and climbing abilities. Or you may want to install a clear safety panel to prevent climbing. Consult with a professional if you are unsure!

Now that we’ve covered the basics…here’s how you can build your own Modern Farmhouse Railing!

Building Instructions for Your Modern Farmhouse Railing

Overall Dimensions: 35” height x 22” length

Here is a list of tools and materials that I used to complete this project.

Materials:

• Newel Post
• Newel Post Attachment Kit
• 1×4 Common Board
• Black Balusters (6)
• Painters Tape
• Caulking

Cut List:

• Newel Post cut to 35”
• Common Board cut to 30.5” (height – baseboard)
• Balusters cut to 20”

Tools:

• Drill
• 3”+ Screws
• 3/4 Spade Drill Bit
• Table Saw (or alternative cutting method)
• Metal Blade (if you are cutting metal balusters)

Step One: Determine the Measurements for Your Modern Farmhouse Railing

Newel Post Measurement

The first measurement you will need is the height of your newel post. I simply took the code height (where my top baluster will be) and added an inch.

34” + 1” = 35” Post Height

Here is the space I was working with…

Once your newel post is cut, I recommend taking it and seeing where you are going to anchor it. Sometimes this may be an exact location, but since ours was a landing we had some wiggle room. I just moved it around and tested out it’s location.

I moved it back and forth a few times making sure it didn’t cramp the steps too much. Once I found an ideal spot I took painters tape and temporarily marked the edge of where I wanted it on the floor.

Common Board Measurement

Next I determined my common board measurement by taking my cut newel post and placing it roughly where it would be anchored. You can see in this picture that I was playing around with scraps of common board…

This is definitely easier with two people 😁 or you can be like me, juggling it all on your own!

I then took a flat board and placed it on top of the newel post and ran it over to the wall. Using a level to ensure it was, well…level, I marked the underside of the board on the wall.

Indicating where the level tops of the common board and newel post will be. Make’s Sense Right? Basically this just ensures you account for any potential variance in the floor!

Now that you know where the top of the common board will be, you can measure down to your baseboard, or floor. This is your common board length!

I used a beautifully simple 1×5 common board for my baseboards, so the flat end met the baseboard perfectly. If you have colonial style baseboards (or something else that is not flat) you may want to cut them out so the vertical common board can just meet the floor.

Baluster Measurements

Now that you know your common board and newel post heights, you can plan out your balusters.

Again, based on code, this may vary. My code was a maximum of 6” between balusters. So with a height of 34” I was able to space out 6 (3/4”) balusters with 5” between them (and 4.5 between the floor and the first baluster)

The easiest way for my mind to make sense of this is to figure out how much space is taken up my the balusters, which are 3/4” thick.

6 x 3/4” = 4 1/2”

Now I know I have to cover 34”, so I need to subtract what will be taken up by balusters to get the total open space.

34” – 4 1/2” = 29 1/2”

Therefore, 29 1/2” is the total open space that needs to be divided between 6 open sections. To avoid going too far into the nightmare of fractions, I cleanly split it to 5” between all the balusters, and 4 1/2” between the floor and first baluster.

5” x 5 = 25” + 4 1/2” = 29 1/2” (I.e. the total open space needed to cover!)

So each space between the balusters is going to be 5”…Easy, Right? Here is a little drawing for the visual learners out there.

In addition it knowing how many, and how spaced out they should be, you need to determine how long they are.

I determined this by placing the newel post where I wanted to anchor it, and measuring from the wall to the inner side of the newel post.

Add 2 inches.

This is the length of your balusters.

Now you should have four measurements:

• Newel Post
• Common Board
• Baluster Total Length & Exposed Length
• Spacing of Balusters

Step Two: Drill Holes in the Newel Post and Common Board

I used a 3/4 spade drill bit from my Ryobi Drill Bit Kit.

I love this kit! We bought it very early on in our homeowner adventures and it has lasted us many years.

Start by marking the center line down the entirety of each board. This is where my yard stick came in handy. I then went hole by hole to ensure that I stayed even. For example, I did the top hole on the newel post and then the top hole on the common board, but that’s just personal preference.

So knowing I wanted the top of first baluster to be an inch down, I simply placed the baluster up against the wood and traced it.

I then predrilled a tiny hole in the center of that circle that would anchor the spade bit. (Not necessary but it keeps it locked in place)

I used painters tape that I placed an inch in on the baluster to check for depth in each hole. Just keep in mind, it’s easier to have them be too shallow than too deep, you can always drill deeper after you check.

After the first hole on the newel post, I switched over and put the corresponding hole on the common board. Just remember, this hole will be much more shallow, since common board is less than an inch thick.

If you accidentally drill through the board it’s not the end of the world, the wall will still be there to stop the baluster.

Continue this process until you have all the holes you need.

Step Three: Secure Common Board

Using long multipurpose screws secure the common board to the wall. I put a screw between every baluster, it may have been a bit overkill, but I wanted it to be extra secure.

This may need to be varied depending on your stud situation. Thankfully, since this was a landing, the corner stud was right there and yearning to be used 😉

Step Four: Pre-Drill Holes for Attachment Kit

This newel post attachment kit is amazing!

Everything you need in one little kit. It also comes in multiple sizes so you can select a variety of newel posts.

For this step I placed the newel post exactly where I wanted it. Put the four metal brackets around the post, and marked the hole locations with a pen.

I then moved everything out of the way and using the recommended drill bit (based specifically on what kit you buy) I pre-drilled the holes.

Step Five: Check the Fit and Assemble Your Modern Farmhouse Railing

This step is a little tricky alone, but trust me, it can be done!

I found it easiest to get the newel post close, a couple inches out from its final anchor position, and place all the balusters into it.

Slowly move it so that it aligns with the holes in the common board. This is where you may need to finagle things a little to get them to simultaneously align. Hopefully everything is level and aligns. If not, you may just need to drill a specific hole deeper.

Note: It is ok if the balusters have some wiggle room, if it bothers you you can always add some glue to hold them in place. I wasn’t worried about it!

Step Six: Secure Newel Post

Now that everything is in place, it is time to actually secure your newel post!

Start by placing the brackets around the post, aligning them with the pre-drilled holes you made earlier. Using the provided screws, secure the brackets to the floor.

Once secure, use the provided screws to secure the brackets to the post. The post should already be pretty tight between the brackets, but have someone push down on the post to make sure it is in full contact with the floor as you drill.

Now you can take the provided trim and attach it using the method in the instructions. I used my nail gun since I had it out for another project. Just be sure to avoid the lower part where the metal brackets are!

The only thing left is to caulk it!

Step Seven: Paint Your Modern Farmhouse Railing Posts

Allow the caulking to dry before painting. Take a piece of painters tape and wrap it around each baluster where it meets the wood.

I also recommend sliding each baluster towards the opposite post putting the tape on, and pushing it back in. This way you get a slight overlap with the tape and can prevent paint from sinking into the baluster holes.

Happy Painting! It’s a quick job on this project 😁 I used some left over white paint, same as my trim. Anything will work!

Now You Can Enjoy Your New Modern Farmhouse Railing

Apparently I took a lot of pictures as it was assembled, but not secured and painted! I literally can’t find a single picture. That is real life for ya…

What do you think of this style, is it something you would build in your home?

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Are you looking for more home or craft inspiration? Check out how I built this Floating Bench, or how I turned this old window into a Wedding Seating Chart!