Simple Wooden Radiator Covers to Disguise your Homes Old Radiators
Time: 3 Hours
Cost:$50
Skill: Moderate
Note: This post may contain affiliate links.
Building these simple wooden radiator covers is a quick project that will not only give new life to your space, it will help you disguise those old radiators that have been collecting dust in your home for 70 years.
Don’t get me wrong, radiators are a beast when it comes to generating heat, but don’t you think they could have made them a little more….I don’t know….aesthetically pleasing?
Well, I am excited to have you follow along and share with you how I built these DIY radiator covers with minimal materials and tools. I labeled this DIY project as “moderate” due to the fact that it takes some brain work, but honestly, the actual building part is pretty straightforward and even beginners can do it!
So read below, to see the full tutorial on how to build radiator covers!
How to Build Radiator Covers
Here is a list of the materials and tools that I used to build these wooden radiator covers.
Materials:
- 4 x 8 Sheet of Sanded Plywood
- 1 x 4 Board
- 1 x 3 Board
- 1 x 2 Board
- Carpet Tacks
- Sheet of Decorative Metal Screening
- Wood Filler
- Paint
Tools:
- Saw
- Paint Brush
- Sanding Sponge
- Tape Measure
- Metal Shears
- Nail Gun & Nails
- Compressor
This DIY wooden radiator cover tutorial is sure to help you create a statement piece for your home. Here are a few quick tips before we get started.
Metal radiator covers transmit more heat, while wooden radiator covers may act as a strong insulator (keeping the heat in). One way to combat this is to make sure you are giving the air as much room to escape as possible, which is why you will see a gap at the top and bottom of the front frame.
Another way to combat this is by inserting a metal panel against the wall. This allows for the heat to be reflected outwards. I skipped this step, because our second floor got plenty of heat and it didn’t impact us since we didn’t spend a lot of time up there. We had very strong radiators! But this is one reason I chose to go with decorative metal screening over wood slats.
Now that that’s out of the way, lets prepare to build!
Step One: Determining the Dimensions of the Wooden Radiator Covers
The great thing about this DIY project is that these wooden radiator covers are completely customizable! Here is how I determine my measurements.
Interior & Exterior Cover Measurements
For me, the easiest way to determine the exterior size, was to figure out how much room the inside of the radiator cover needed to clear the unit. It is helpful to conceptualize the whole cover as a 3D box that needs to encapsulate the radiator on 4 sides.
- Front
- Top
- Side 1
- Side 2
So get your tape measure out and determine the length, width, and height of your radiator unit. Be sure to measure the width from the wall and not just the unit. This is because the cover will sit snug against the wall. Also include the valves, unless you plan on leaving them outside the cover.
You are going to add an inch to each of these measurements. This is the inside measurement of your radiator cover box, which will allow room on all sides to clear the unit.
To covert these measurements to the exterior measurement, just add the thickness of your wood.
Example Measurements
For example, if I needed to have my radiator cover box clear a unit that is 36.25 x 12.25 x 30.25 (Length x Width x Height), then I am going to add an inch to each of those to get my minimum interior measurements.
So my interior measurements would be 37.25 x 13.25 x 31.25
To convert these to exterior measurements you simply add the thickness of your wood. I wouldn’t waste too much time with fractions, most 1 x # wood is 3/4 of an inch, so you could round up. But following this logic I would add .75 to each of my internal measurements.
Therefore, my exterior measurements would be 38 x 14 x 32 (and YES I sure did work backwards from whole numbers so I could make this example easy)
Lets say math really isn’t your thing. You could simply add 2 inches to each of your radiator measurements, and assuming your wood isn’t over an inch thick, you will still have plenty of clearance space.
As long as your space has wiggle room, i.e.. an open wall, then you can technically make the box as big as you want.
Now that you know the size that your wooden radiator covers need to be, you can get to building!
Note: Based on the overall size you may choose to vary the size wood you use. As you can see, on my taller radiator cover I went with a wider frame across the top and bottom. Had this been thin like my shorter radiator cover, the proportions may have looked off.
Step Two: Building the Front of the Radiator Covers
I am absolutely a visual learner. While I can conceptualize things in my head, I definitely do better when I can have everything in front of me. This means that when I am building things I like to see the wood laid out.
So to build the front of the radiator covers you are going to take two 1 x 3 boards (cut to length) and connect them using two horizontal 1 x 4 boards (cut to length). Position the two horizontal boards roughly an inch from the top and two inches from the bottom. These distances are personal preference, but I found that a 1:2 ratio looked the best.
Secure using a nail gun. If you want you could also use wood glue to add reinforcement, I did not.
I actually left the vertical pieces tall so I could double check how much clearance I was going to get from the radiator unit. This isn’t necessary, I just have very uneven floors and wanted to be extra sure I was building this right. I just marked them and cut them after I confirmed the height I wanted.
As you can see in these pictures, I built two different sizes, but the concept is still the same.
For the shorter and longer radiator I simply constructed it using all 1 x 2 boards. For the bigger cover I used a variety that included 1 x 2, 1 x 3, and 1 x 4 boards.
Step Three: Building the Sides of the Radiator Covers
Now that you have the front frame built you are going to use two 1 x 3 and two 1 x 2 pieces to create each of the side frames. Once you complete one side, you will repeat the process on the other.
Horizontal Frame Pieces
First you will take two 1 x 3 boards and cut them to the necessary width.
So if I needed my frame to end 14 inches off the wall (per my example above) this measurement is going to be that number less the thickness of the board, since it is part of the front frame. Assuming there are no baseboards and your walls are even, these should be the same measurement.
Mine from the example would be 13.25, get it? 14 (my overall exterior width) minus the .75 thickness of the board.
If there are baseboards, I recommend cutting them out, or just do what I did and make it shorter to account for the thickness of the baseboard. Then you can notch the back vertical piece if you want. I did on one cover, but not the other.
Now, attach those two pieces by shooting the nail gun through the front of the frame. They will be flimsy, but don’t worry, once we get the other pieces on they will be stable.
I did not leave a gap on the sides, like I did the front, because I needed something to nail the top to.
Tip: To get a smooth transition, simply use your finger or a board to check for perfect alignment along the top of where the two top boards meet.
Here is what it will look like when you have these two pieces in place.
Vertical Frame Pieces
Now that you have the top and bottom horizontal pieces secured you are going to reinforce them using two cuts of 1 x 2 board, placed vertically. Use your tape measure to find the height of each piece, it is better to cut them longer and shave off a bit if you have to. That way you will get a nice supportive and snug fit.
If you have radiators, it is likely that your home is older. Same here. My goal was to make sure the top was level, so I took each of these measurements separately and did not assume they would be the same.
Once these two pieces are snuggly in place, you can use the nail gun to nail through the front frame into the first board. Try very slightly tilting the gun so that you don’t accidentally shoot through the exposed side. Thankfully its nothing a little wood filler can’t fix, if you do.
For the second piece, towards the back, secure it by shooting at an angle through the 1 x 2 into both of the 1 x 3 boards.
As you can see from my pictures, I decided to notch the 1 x 2 to fit around the baseboard. I played around with the idea of cutting it so it had enough tilt to run along the wall, but I preferred that the open square where the decorative metal screen would end up, remained even.
Step Four: Adding the Dividers to the Front Frame
Now that you have the frame built, it is time to add some dividers. These will give you not only an aesthetic look, but they will also give you something to attach the decorative metal screens to.
Personally I love the look of the thinner dividers, so I used 1 x 2 boards to accomplish this. However, you can customize these with any size board that fits your style.
I recommend cutting two or three dividers, and trying them out. If you have a good fit they should just stay put without being secured. This is a good way to visualize how the final product will look and it will help you determine how spaced out you want them to be.
More math….the easiest way for me to determine spacing is to measure the open space that needs coverage. Then subtract how much space the dividers will take up. That is how much empty space you will have, and can divide it by the number of sections.
So lets say you have 45 inches of open space, and you want to use two dividers, which will create three open sections.
45 – (2 x 1.5) = 42
42 / 3 = 14 inches of open space between each of the dividers
Ok, so now you know where they will be spaced. Secure each divider with the nail gun, by shooting up through the 1 x 2 into each side of the 1 x 4. If the dividers move slightly from the force, just tap them with a hammer. You could also use clamps, I somehow just have never owned them.
Step Five: Building the Top of the Radiator Covers
The frame is done, and it is time to add the top!
For my top I chose a sanded plywood. It may take some extra planning, but if you know your measurement and don’t have a saw capable of cutting a 4 x 8 sheet, have the store cut it for you. This always helped me, and my Toyota Corolla.
In my opinion a slight overhang helps prevent any issues in measuring, and takes away the pressure to get it exact. Again, if you have radiators your home is probably old enough for you to understand the struggle of uneven everything.
I added a half inch on both sides and the front.
Once cut, position your wood sheet on top of the frame. Get it into place with even overhangs, and go across both sides securing it to the board underneath
Remember, you left a gap along the front, so don’t put any nails through there, and if you miss shoot on the side just use pliers to pull it out and try again.
Step Six: Fix Imperfections and Sand the Radiator Covers
Congratulations! You have officially built your first wooden radiator cover! Now it is time to fix any of those little imperfections and get the cover prepped for painting.
Using wood filler, I went around an filled all the little holes and seams. Fun tip: spackle is way easier to use and sand, I just didn’t have any on hand so I went with the wood filler.
Allow to dry based on specific product instructions, and then run a sanding sponge over the entire cover. Then a dust rag to collect any fine particles.
Common board and sanded plywood really don’t require much work. They are already both very smooth. If I didn’t need to fill some little holes, I would have skipped straight to painting it.
Step Seven: Painting the Radiator Covers
I hate buying paint for a small project like this, and thankfully I had some trim paint laying around. I used the ProClassic acrylic latex paint in Extra White Gloss from Sherwin Williams.
This paint went on nice and smooth, and I got perfect coverage in two quick coats.
I used a couple of horses to hold my cover so that I could flip it over and paint most of it, then put it on the ground to paint the top.
Step Eight: Attaching the Decorative Screening to the Radiator Covers
There are so many different styles of decorative metal screens out there. I went to my local home depot and found a simple pattern called “Unionjack”, but there are endless options out there. You can also consider spray painting, but in my experience the silver picks up the white and almost looks white itself.
Using metal shears, cut the decorative metal screens so that they are each slightly bigger than your openings. Pay attention to the pattern to ensure that when you cut it, you have something to nail through.
As you cut, go slow to avoid knicking yourself, metal is sharp!
Once you have your squares cut to size, put your cover face down. I used a couple of books to give it some pressure underneath, because the overhang will prevent it from laying flat on the ground. I also recommend doing this on a surface that wont scratch your newly painted radiator cover.
Using the carpet tacks and a hammer, secure the decorative metal screens to the back of the cover. Ensuring that the correct side is facing forward (if it has two different sides).
Step Nine: Installing the Finished Radiator Covers
You did it!! You built a radiator cover, how cool is that?
All that is left to do is “install” your new cover. For me, this literally meant just sliding it into place, but for you it could mean securing it to the wall.
Things to consider:
- Kid Access
- Pet Access
- Frequency of Cover Removal for Service
- Frequency of Access to Valves
So plan accordingly based on what works for you and your family.
Now you know how to build radiator covers!
So enjoy your beautiful new wooden radiator covers! These inexpensive radiator covers will undoubtedly keep your guests asking where you bought them!
This DIY project can easily be adapted to create a cover of any height, length, or depth. Some of you may have baseboard heating, and this is a great option for disguising those as well. Simply create baseboard heater covers by making a longer version of these. I would definitely add in supports every few feet, i.e. pieces that touch the ground. The explanation that makes the most sense to me, is that you would create multiple front frames and have them share an edge.
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Are you looking for more home or craft inspiration? Check out how I built this adorable Wooden Book Bin for my nephew, or how I transformed this old window into a Wedding Seating Chart!
